I should have seen the Brno Dragon coming. Sure, modern Moravia is not the kind of place I would normally worry about dragons, but I have seen dragons in several improbable places in Central and Eastern Europe. They have been breeding across the region since the Dark Ages. Their number rose in the Middle Ages and has remained stable ever since. Among their most prominent lairs are Krakow, Nyirbator, Krakow and Zagreb. Just like the people they have preyed on; these dragons have personalities. Some are seen as powerful, others as menacing, and still others as downright evil. An association with dragons often denotes heroism and martial valor. Defeating a dragon in battle can lead to legendary status as it did for Vitus of the Bathory clan and the most feted of all dragon slayers, St. George. A mere mortal like me must be satisfied with escaping the clutches of dragons while traveling through the region.
Scary scenario – From Dragon Bridge in Ljubljana (Credit: Bryce Edwards)
City of Dragons – The Legend of Ljubljana
One of my confrontations with dragons occurred in a land that would seem to lack such associations. Slovenia is a small, prosperous nation well-known for its alpine landscapes. It has a well-deserved reputation as a smaller, quainter, and cheaper version of its next-door neighbor Austria. Those who visit Slovenia hope to get a bargain for the beauty on offer. I was no different in this respect, but dragons in the capital city of Ljubljana gave me more than I bargained for. My meeting with fire breathing foes occurred on a troubled bridge over murky water. There were four awaiting me in the city center of Slovenia’s capital. They were perched on the Dragon Bridge, a triple arched, Viennese Secession style structure laid across the Ljubljanica River. The dragons recall Jason and the Argonauts who legend says were traveling through the area when they discovered a lake with adjacent marshland where a ferocious dragon lived. Jason slew the Ljubljana Dragon and founded the city.
Ljubljana is known as the City of Dragons, and the Dragon Bridge is home to four sculptures of these fearsome beasts, including the one Jason defeated. Ironically, dragons are seen as symbolic protectors of Ljubljana, but the one who took on Jason did not fare very well. The four dragon sculptures are sufficiently menacing and strikingly picturesque. With wings spread, mouth open, and fangs bared, they are ready to gobble up pedestrians or roast them alive. The dragons are more accommodating to virgins. Any time one crosses the bridge, a local legend says they wag their tails. I did not notice any of their tails wagging, but the dragons were accommodating enough allow photos.
Splendor & danger – Old Town Hall in Brno
Lurking Danger – Too Close For Comfort
The dragons in Ljubljana and the small Hungarian city of Nyirbator got my attention. Those experiences should have taught me to always be on the lookout for other ones. In Brno, the largest city in Moravia, reality could have bitten hard because I let my guard down. I was on the lookout for bookshops and historic sites, while admiring the Old Town’s impressive architecture. It has been said that life is what happens when you are doing other things. In the case of Brno, an attack by a dragon could have happened while I was doing other things. I had no idea that the Brno dragon was lurking just inside the Old Town Hall’s entrance. I unknowingly came way too close for comfort.
Going back through my photos of the afternoon I spent walking around the city center, I found one of the Old Town Hall. The dragon’s lair at the entrance was less than a hundred meters away from where I stood on a pedestrianized street that runs straight up to the covered entrance. The Old Town Hall was framed by buildings on either side of the street leading up to it. I was too busy taking photos of its tower which stands in perfect symmetry with the street. I never saw the Brno dragon which I later discovered lurks just above the entrance in a covered passageway. If I had, my curiosity might have gotten the better of me. This could have led to a terrifying confrontation and potentially dire consequences. What saved me was a parked vehicle that blocked half the Old Town Hall’s entrance from view. Thankfully, it did not allow me to catch a glimpse of the Brno Dragon.
Risk & Reward – An Explosive Force
Do dragons really exist? The answer to that question depends on how you define a dragon. Photos of the Brno Dragon which hangs just inside the Old Town Hall entrance looks suspiciously like a huge, stuffed crocodile. This is the stuff legends are made of. Specifically, a medieval legend of how Brno was terrorized by a dragon whose lair was the Svratka River. The dragon was eating all livestock in the area and attacking Brno’s citizens. The locals were scared to go out. The once thriving market town was facing dereliction if something was not done. Brno’s citizens were desperate to rid themselves of the terrible beast. A hundred pieces of gold pieces were offered to anyone who slayed the dragon. A butcher soon appeared on the scene to take up the offer. He laid an ingenious trap by filling an animal hide with caustic lime. Sure enough, the dragon gobbled the hide up. The lime caused intense thirst. This led the dragon to consume a large amount of water from the Svratka River. The lime in the dragon’s stomach expanded, causing the creature to explode. The butcher collected his reward and prosperity returned to Brno.
The Brno Dragon makes for a fascinating legend, but the truth about the creature is less dramatic. The reptile hanging inside the Old Town Hall entrance is a Nile crocodile that arrived in the city as a diplomatic gift during the 16th century. The locals must have been in awe of the crocodile because few would have been aware of such a creature’s existence. The crocodile fits enough of the image associated with dragons to be called one. A legend grew up around the creature. One that the city still takes pride in today. After learning about the crocodile, I was disappointed that I did not get a closer look. Then again, I should perhaps consider myself lucky. Crocodile or dragon, dead or alive, the beast of Brno continues to haunt the Old Town’s entrance. Visitors beware.
Click here for: Improbable Itinerary – A Provincial Past (Rendezvous With An Obscure Destiny #75a)