Some people would travel across the world just to see a sunset in Zadar. And others would travel across the world to hear the siren scream of Zadar’s sea organ. I was lucky enough to be one of those people.
Zadar has several must see historic sites and museums that attract tourists. These include a clutch of medieval churches, outstanding examples of gold and silver reliquaries for a multitude of saints, several sections of the renowned city walls and a seaside promenade par excellence. It is the latter that attracts the most attention from visitors and not just because of its incredibly entrancing views of the Adriatic. It is also home to one of the most unique structures in Zadar, the sea organ. It is also home to a waning sun that sets the sky ablaze.
Siren’s Song – A Rousing Sendoff
When I first heard of Zadar’s Sea Organ, I felt a sense of bemusement. If ever there was a novelty than surely this must be it. I wondered if the organ was a premodern monstrosity created to amuse the ancient or medieval masses. The word contraption came to mind. Nonetheless, I was not going to pass up a chance to observe the Sea Organ in action. As a childhood acolyte of Ripley’s Believe It or Not, a place that I managed to frequent on family vacations at the seaside, I knew that the Sea Organ would be something of interest to me. I dragged my wife along with me. She was nonplussed when I mentioned that this was a must see. She had every right to feel that way, but I convinced her that it would be worth the bother.
We were 100 meters from the western end of Zadar’s seafront when I first heard the Sea Organ announce its presence. Imagine a whale warming up, or a ship’s sounding filtered through the water. The Sea Organ emitted powerful, fully developed sounds that were felt as well as heard. The Sea Organ’s power mirrored that of the water which filtered through its 35 pipes divided into 7 graded sections. The structure has a series of steps going down to the sea. Starting with eight steps in the first section, then less one step for each subsequent section. The brainchild of architect Nikola Basic, the Sea Organ was completed in 2005 and was a successful addition to Zadar’s seafront.
Prior to the Sea Organ, the waterfront in this part of Zadar was little more than a concrete conurbation. It was a hangout for ne’er do wells who engaged in a wide range of dubious activities. These included drug users, teenagers boozing and illicit love tristes. This was not exactly family or tourist entertainment. The seafront’s condition was the result of destruction by Allied bombing runs during World War II and communist constructions since that time. The Sea Organ helped make this part of Zadar desirable again. It spawned a dramatic increase in foot traffic, especially on summer evenings. Crowds gather at dusk to hear the Sea Organ while watching the sunset. The sun gets a rousing sendoff from the Sea Organ throughout the year.
Towering Above – Reaching For The Sky
I decided to watch the sunset from another precious spot in Zadar, the Bell Tower (Campanile) of the Cathedral of St. Anastasia. The latter stood close to the center of the Old Town, soaring high above the cityscape. The 56 meter high bell tower had been built in two phases. What makes its construction so interesting was that the building phases occurred 450 years apart. The lower portion was built in the mid-15th century. If the construction had then ended, there would have been no campanile to scale. Thanks to the efforts of British architect Thomas Jackson, later additions of the upper portion came off splendidly. This can be attributed to Jackson modeling the Bell Tower after another famous one on the island of Rab. Jackson was also an art historian and brought his breadth of knowledge to bear upon the design. That is why the Bell Tower’s upper levels make such a fine addition to Zadar’s skyline.
The Bell Tower also serves as a lookout for tourists who want to get an aerial view of the city and sea. This experience is one that crowds of onlookers avail themselves of each evening. For just 15 kuna ($2.50), I was allowed the opportunity to climb the 180 steps to a viewing platform that wraps around the structure. The climb left me breathless, but the view over Zadar was breathtaking. The sun was beginning to dip as dusk slowly, but inexorably gave way to the encroaching darkness. Shadows lowered their veils over the Old Town. Orange rooftops and stone structures were still managed a fleeting radiant amid the waning light. In the distance were islands and the Adriatic stretching off into the horizon. The sky which surrounded the sinking sun had turned a tinge of velvet, the fabric of nature stretching across the lowest part of the horizon. It was ecstasy in its purest and most primitive form.
A Sublime Stupor – Life Worth Living
The platform was crowded as people snapped photos. The most in demand spots were any of those which looked over the Old Town and towards the sea. Everyone was keen to witness the famed Zadar sunset. The town advertises it as the world’s best. 57 years earlier, Alfred Hitchcock, the iconic director of suspense films had been staying at the Hotel Zagreb when he witnessed the sunsetting from the seaside in Zadar. Hitchcock was so taken with the scene that he proclaimed the Zadar sunset as best in the world. Hitchcock’s opinion had been spread far and wide. Tourism authorities in Zadar found it useful in promoting the city. This was the rare case when promotional efforts spoke a universal truth. The Zadar sunset was as good as advertised.
The Sea Organ and beautiful sunsets were Zadar’s main seaside calling cards, enchanting hundreds of thousands every year. I watched people frolic near the Sea Organ while others stood in a sublime stupor, dumbfounded as they listened to the sounds emitted by this seamless integration of the natural and manmade worlds. The sunset transfixed crowds of onlookers. To gaze upon such beauty was truly a blessing, it made life worth living. The sunset and Sea Organ were unique experiences, ones that I would never forget. The rest of the world melted away before them. Sky, sea, and sound were all that was left, the fundamental elements of life in Zadar.
Click here for: The Secrets of Zadar – A Free Spirited Free Tour (Travels On The Croatian Coast #13)
Europe Between East And West 